Maybe I should've just gotten an M1 Max MacBook Pro instead. (The menu bar stats thing is called iStat Menus.)Īnd yes, I could just play back the file from my laptop straight to the TV, but that would require I dig around to find a USB-C to HDMI adapter, since this M2 MacBook Air only has ThunderBolt 4 USB Type C ports. Now the CPU is happily distributing the load amongst the four performance cores and keeping the SoC down at a more sane 85☌ average: It seems that for x265, the setting you may need is pools=2 instead of threads=2, but I haven't tested that (the 'smart' TV on which I'm trying to play back the file might be too old to support H.265 and I'm too lazy to encode a file and test it, or to find the TV's model number and look up the specs). So to limit Handbrake a bit-which would slow rendering to 5-10 fps but also not cook my lap-I added threads=2 to the 'Additional Options' field in Handbrake's Video settings: I could encode anywhere between 10-18 fps at 4K resolution with x264, but the SoC temperature rose to 105☌ and was uncomfortably hot within a minute or so. And unfortunately for Apple's latest M2 MacBook Air, there's no fan or heat sink to keep the M2 SoC cool.Īnd that meant the temperature around the top middle of the keyboard-and the bottom middle of the laptop-got quite uncomfortably hot with Handbrake's default settings, which would max out the CPU during the transcoding process. Handbrake is a famous free and open-source video encoder program with versatile advanced settings mainly focusing on ripping regular DVDs or converting videos to MP4 or MKV containers in H.264/H.265 codec, and to some iPhone iPad preset profiles. I also wanted to do other work on my laptop-in my lap. Therefore, I thought I'd transcode the file so it would play. It seems to do okay with some H.264 profiles, but not the one for this 4K Blu-Ray rip. I brought all my media with me on a spare hard drive, but one movie I had ripped but never transcoded wouldn't play on the 'Smart' TV here. Support: check out what support is available – for example live chat, online, or email support.Due to a recent surgery, I've been recovering at a location outside my home for a few weeks. User reviews: it’s a good idea to check out the ratings and user reviews for any software before you purchase it to see how happy other users are with the software, as well as highlight any problems, bugs, or issues. Supported formats: it’s best to choose software that supports the widest range of formats possible including the most common file formats, such as MP4. Check the developer’s website and read through the features before purchasing the software. If possible, choose software that offers a free trial so you can ensure it’s right for you.įeatures: check that the compressor you choose offers all the features you need. Apps which offer many features may be tempting, but they can be complicated to use. With it, you get to transcode native H.265 files into H.264 conveniently, not forgetting the ability to rip unprotected DVDs and Blu-rays. Usability: ensure that the app or software you choose is easy to use and suits your level of experience. HandBrake is a free and open-source H265 to H264 converter that is available on multiple platforms including Windows, Linux, and Mac. In summary, here are some of the most important things to consider when choosing the best free video compression software: We hope this article has helped you consider what to look for in a video compressor.
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